A family walk up, over, down and around Buttermilk Hill, otherwise known as Trevalgan Hill or Little Trevalgan, in early spring. Just over the top, looking back, I wonder how long this granite outcrop has been here – centuries, certainly. Whose footsteps have I just trodden in, and what were the stories of their owners? This could be true for almost anywhere in the world, but somehow here, in West Penwith, in places where the landscape hardly changes, our ancestors and our history feel so much closer.